Thursday, December 30, 2010
Rediscovery-Part X.1
After shivering for 3 days from a nozzle infection I finally made it on the road for another discovery session. LB-LA-SLO. Nezzy and I met up with Zill and Bruüno Malí. No surf. Just gypo ceviche. Wet willies and eaaaarls.






Thursday, December 23, 2010
Love Fences or Quiche
Wednesday, December 22, 2010
Friday, December 17, 2010
Doo Doo Brown
Islands....
Floating over the Pacific in a jet plane headed toward San F I caught a glimpse of a couple blacks dots in the big blue. SBI and the CI's. How many good waves go unridden out there while I'm groveling at Huntington? How many fish are begging to be punctured? Well tons. New years resolution. Shredding those islands in the next month or so. See ya out there....


Thursday, December 16, 2010
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