notesfromthehole

Thursday, November 4, 2010

Part IV: Le Monde du Surf

The sun came up over an American flag here in French California. The temps pinned 90 at 9am. The stink of tar tar and red wine filled my nose as my French roomy prepared a feast. I hopped in the buggy expecting another disappointing surf on the lost French coast but was completely wrong. My spirits squirreled with offshores and tubes. Sheet glass and pirates. France did me right. The French kiss was invented here god dammit and I wanted tongue daggers. I got the whole French enchilada. Two sessions for a 6 hour love fest. The world makes sense. Rib cage bruises. France is sexier than California but surprisingly similar. I hope she brings goon bags and apple tarts tomorrow. I do not negotiate with terrorists.

Wednesday, November 3, 2010

Part lll: Le Monde du Surf

The swell isn't was it was cracked up to be. Surfed with the most exquisite French men and women. The European continent of the USA has many beautiful things to see like coffee, zines, beers and borritos. The quest across the French Pacific hasn't ended....

Tuesday, November 2, 2010

Part ll: Le Monde du Surf

The French Pacific expedition continued with a fun surf and tales of baguettes and four feet over head sets in Santa Cruz. Had to ride a thruster in memory of Andy Irons (RIP). He got Dangy. Had some French driver driving me down the coast with extreme BO. The mission will continue into the early morning sunrise session with Beirut and Bjork.

Part 1: Le Monde du Surf

This is part one of the French surf journey through California; "Le Monde du Surf." Not sure what the swell has in store for me, but my journey through French California has been totally French. I voted as a Californian democrat. Ate a cheese burger and FRENCH fries. And looked at the beautiful French Pacific. Still flat but the CDIP is showing swell on the way.