Shred shred shred shred.
Spend Memorial Weekend enjoying what soldiers in the US and A die for. I don't amp on war but I enjoy freedom. So, to thanks all our soldiers, I took liberty to the limit. Excercising my right to be a total surf bum. HB, Seal Jetty by bike and a full hippy seshi at Lowers for 5 hours strait.
1. Getting spanked on the ass by a beginner surfers sled I just gave pointers.
2. Leon looking like a jetty dweller on the walk down the LB jetty to paddle to river.
3. Two million frontside carves.
5. Parking on the military base just because we were nice and said the word "Sir".
6. Surfing uncrowded lowers with Gsepp for 5 hours strait.
7. Riding my finless Rabbits Foot at uncrowded lowers.
8. Getting ejected off my board on a set sliding backwards down the face.
9. 3 Pacifico's after my surf.
10. A Giant American Flag photo shoot
11. White Denim
13. Being Alive.